Starting in Lisbon and finishing in Bilboa
Why are we taking this trip?
Like all our itineraries we are starting with the question Why? (See this post for the 3 essential first steps in planning a trip to Europe)
This weeks couple come from Toronto , Canada. They are book lovers and fans of modern art. They dream of the type of library you find in Beauty and the Beast or Harry Potter. They have a budget of 14000CAD and 2 weeks free in September. They prefer the freedom of a road trip over train travel.
Planning our European Trip
The starting point for this trip is a book store. Not just any books store, one of the prettiest bookstores in the world Livraria Lello e Irmão . It reportedly inspired JK Rowling for the Harry Potter books. It’s located in Porto so Portugal seems like a good place to go. As it happens there are two other notable libraries in Portugal. The The Baroque “Joanina” Library of the University of Coimbra inspiration for the 2017 Disney film Beauty and the Beast and the Mafra Palace Library, which is one of the most important libraries in Portugal as well as being one of the most beautiful libraries in the world.
But what about modern art? The first thing that comes to mind for modern art in Europe is the Guggenheim museum. Built in Bilboa, Spain in 1997 it instantly became a symbol of the city and an import part of the Renaissance of this once very rich city. Portugal also boasts its own modern art museum in Lisbon, and the town has other delights to offer contemporary art lovers.
Whilst it is possible to take the train from Lisbon to Porto, travelling from Porto to Bilbao is more complicated. Getting out to Mafra and Coimbra is easier by car as is the drive through the Basque country, but taking a rental car across European borders can be expensive and having a rental car whilst stay in a city is awkward due to parking restrictions. So we have decided to split the journey, using a hire car to drive from Lisbon to Porto via Mafra and Coimbra. Dropping th car off in Porto, crossing the border on regional rail and then picking up another hire car for the second leg of the trip. This reduces the cost significantly, eliminates parking stress and allows for a change of pace.
What to see on our two week trip to Portugal and Spain
What to see in Lisbon
- Belem Monestary and tower
- Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology
- Livaria Ler Devagar bookstore
What to see between Lisbon and Porto
- National Palace of Mafra – with one of the prettiest libraries in the world
- Univeristy of Coimbra – with the Beauty and the Beast Library
- Medieval town of Obidos
- Pena Palace Sintra – too much like a fairytale to drive past
- Aveiro – known as the Venice of Portugal
What to see in Porto
- Bookstore Livraria Lello
- Douro Valley
What to see Between Porto and Bilbao
- Braga – a city known for its Baroque architecture, ancient Roman roots, and the stunning Bom Jesus do Monte sanctuary
- Guimarães known as the birthplace of Portugal
- Pontevedra – Medieval town
- Combras – pettiest town in Galacia
- Santiago de Compostela – the pilgrims homeland
- Oviedo – a perfect blend of medieval and modern architecture
- Playa de las Catedrales – a beach famous for its stunning rock formations
- Santander and the Palacio de la Magdalena
What to see in Bilbao
- The Guggenheim museum of Modern art
- Biblioteca de Bidebarrieta – a 19th centruy marvel with stained glass and wood paneled reading rooms
Hotel Choices
These choices are totally independant with no affiliation. The prices are for a couple and in general I haven’t chosen the most basic room.
Hotel in Lisbon
Hotel Dare Lisbon A lovely small hotel in an excellent location. Easy walking distance to most places in Lisbon. I hesitate to use the words hidden gem but this might be one. As an added advantage it is opposite the fabulous Time Out Market food hall.
Hotel in Óbidos
When I read about the hotel The Literary Man I couldn’t miss it out of this itinerary. A hotel based around books, where bookshelves take centre stage. Now that’s my kind of hotel!
Hotel in Coimbra
Ibn Arrik is a small, intimate and beautifully decorated hotel just 5 minutes walk from Coimbra university. And it has the all important parking!
Hotel in the Douro Valley
Because on a trip like this it is important to stop and relax sometimes, we’ve chosen the Douro Cister Hotel and Spa .
Hotel in Porto
When you are not staying long it is good to be in the middle of things, the Grande Hotel de Porto has old world charm whilst being very centrally located on a pedestrian street.
Hotel in Santiago de Compostela
Just 150m from the historic heart of Santiago de Compestala, the Cathedral where all the pilgrims are headed, you will find the San Francisco Hotel Monumento. A cultural heritage site in it’s own right it offers it’s guests the tranquillity of an eighteenth century convent, but with modern facilities.
Hotel in Oviedo
Oviedo is the region’s capital and is a perfect blend of medieval and modern architecture. Here you will find the Hotel de la Reconquista, another national monument (this part of Spain seems to be full of them!) Chock full of history it even features a notable collection of art by local painters.
Hotel in Bilbao
The main focus in choosing an hotel in Bilbao was location. Not only for the Guggenheim museum, but also so that we could enjoy the local taps, called Pintxos in the Basque country. The Sercotel Arenal Bilbao is perfectly situated near the Plaza Nueva in the old town which is the place to go for all kinds of pintxos!
Northern Spain and Portugal trip
Now we have all that together it is time to detail our 14 day itinerary to Europe, starting in Lisbon and finishing in Bilbao. Note that the walking tours mentioned are an affiliate link to Get your Guide. This is a German site aimed at linking local guides with travellers.
Monday 15th September
Arrive in Lisbon at 11:05 on the Air Canada flight from Toronto. Take a taxi from the airport to the Hotel Dare Lisbon . Drop the bags if the room isn’t ready and head over the road to the Time Out Market food hall.
Consistently ranked as one of the best places to eat in Lisbon, this market is a renovation of the Mercado da Ribeira. The Time Out Market is a large covered “market” made up of around thirty small kiosks. These are lined up next to each other on all 4 sides of the market. All you buy here is food and drink, and you can also buy regional specialities. Once you’ve made your choice, you can eat in the middle of the market, at large tables, either high or low.
One big advantage is its open all day and you don’t need reservations so even if you get in a bit later than planned from the airport you can still eat.
A great way to acclimatise to a new city, especially if you aren’t used to travelling to Europe, is a walking tour. You get to see around the city with a local guide, giving you the opportunity to familiarise yourself with the urban landscape.
For dinner on our first night we are sticking to traditional Portuguese not too far from the hotel at the Rio Grande restaurant. Sit outside on the umbrella covered street and soak up the atmosphere.
Tuesday 16th September
Two small museums this morning so not to overwelm if we have jetlag. The first is a small Workshop Museum to the local contemporary artist Julio Pomar which is housed in a building by the renowned Architect Siza. After that we are heading to the nearby Pharmacy Museum I love museums that are a little out of the ordinary and this fits the bill covering the history of pharmacy from Egyptian times up to the space age.
For lunch we are taking a 10 mùinute walk to O Fernandinho for the best Octupus you’ve ever eaten. But we won’t be having pudding as we are eating pastry every time we pass a shop.
From lunch we can head to the emblematic Elevador de Santa Justa its 6€ to go up. But can just walk if queues are too long.
From there walk down rue Augusta for 20 minutes or so to explore the shops, My favourite for souvenirs is Silva e Feijoo R. de São Nicolau 52. Walk back to the hotel stopping by R. do Poço dos Negros which is a good place for original shops.
This evening we are going to the georgeous Lumi rooftop bar and restaurant . A Modern restaurant WITH A roof top terrace in a building that used to be a palace. the food is as good as the atmosphere.
Wednesday 17th September
This morning we are taking either a train or a taxi out to Belem. This is a famous part of Lisbon with its monastery and legendary tower, but we are heading to the pastry shop first. Everything else is secondary. The Pastéis de Belém (R. de Belém 84 92) is reputed to be the place that invented the delicious pasteis de nata, my favourite pastry. It can get busy, which is why we are going there first, but the queue moves pretty quickly.
Once we’ve had our fill of pastries we can take a look at the other notable things in Belem. The Belem tower, originally built in 1519 on an island as part of the defences to the city. The Earthquake in 1755 brought the island towards the land and it now sits on a headland. You can visit the inside of the tower, but I’m not sure it’s worth the 15€ entry charge.
The other notable building in Belem is the Jerónimos Monastery. This Gothic masterpiece is testimony to the power Portugal held during the age of discovery. Unfortunately it is extremely popular meaning very long lines. I think you get the most out of the exterior of the building so if the queues are too long admire from the outside and go find more pastry!
From Belem grab a taxi and head to the LX Factory. This is a former large fabric factory that has been redeveloped into a fashionable hub. There are bars, restaurants and shops, all set in an urban street-art atmosphere. Find some lunch here and seek out the Livraria Ler Devagar this bookstore may be best known for the cycling girl that hangs from the ceiling of the store, but the books are especially fantastic.
From the LX Factory tram or taxi (you could walk but its about 25 minutes and its not an interesting walk) to the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology. Here you can admire exhibitions of contemporary art and architecture by Portuguese and international artists. Its director is none other than Pedro Gadanho, formerly of New York’s Museum of Modern Art. If time permits then it is worth staying until sunset to enjoy the view from the roof terrace.
For dinner my choice is Cafe Manab near the hotel. It’s got a great outdoor terrace and a Mezze selection to die for.
Thursday 18th September
Back to the airport early this morning to pick up the hire car. It is possible to get hire cars in the city, but it is much easier at the airport. The offices are open longer hours, and you are already out of the city which makes driving easier. Drive 30 minutes to Sintra and park near the station.
Sintra is a fairytale town, famous for its palaces and lush, scenic landscapes. It’s where the Portuguese royals an the high and mighty went in the summer to escape the heat. It has a micro climate which means a lot of humidity and fog in particular. This is why there is such lush vegetation. There are a multitude of palaces and notable houses in the area but the main draw is the Palácio da Pena, a colorful and whimsical castle perched on a hill.
It’s quite a hike up to the palace so I recommend you take a tuk-tuk tour. There are usually several hanging around the station or you can book your tour in advance. If you want to stretch your legs then walk down from the palace. As you cross people on the way up you’ll know you made the right choice.
To avoid the tourist traps at lunchtime eat at the Cantinho da Vila in Sintra. With it’s whitewashed walls and blue and white checked tablecloths it’s a fairytale of its own.
The drive to Mafra from Sintra takes just 30 minutes by highway, but I prefer the slow road so suggest the route via Odrinhas and Cheleiros which only 15 minutes longer and is much more scenic.
The National Palace in Mafra built in the 18th century following the discovery of gold and diamonds in Brazil. It is a grandiose Baroque masterpiece and stands testament to just how rich Portugal became thanks to its exploitation of the natural wealth of South America. It’s big, really big. It has no less than 156 staircases!
The Mafra Palace Library is one of the most important libraries in Portugal. Measuring 85 metres long and 9.5 metres wide, it houses a valuable collection of around 36,000 books, including some rare works. It is one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. it also, bizarely, uses bats to keep the books in pristine condition.
The drive from Mafra to Obidos is just 40 minutes on the highway, which has tolls. An extra half hour avoids the tolls and takes you the more picturesque route.
Óbidos is a picturesque medieval town with cobbled streets, whitewashed houses, and a stunning castle. It is a popular day trip so gets busy during the day but is much quieter in the evenings so makes a great overnight stop.
Park at the hotel The Literary Man and then walk out to dinner at Ja!mon Ja!mon four smaller sharing dishes is just the right amount for two.
Friday 19th September
After a morning walk around Obidos jump in the car and head for the coast, stopping if you like at the Bordallo Pinheiro ceramics factory and store.
Peniche is a charming fishing town sits on a rugged peninsula, offering breathtaking views of the Atlantic. Varanda de Dominique and Praia do Carreiro de Joanes are two great spots for photos. Lunch could be taken at Tasca do Joel a large restaurant with a gormet shop. Its decades of sucess are proof of the quality of the food.
The highway from Peniche to Coimbra takes and hour and forty minutes, but I prefer to take the afternoon and hug the coast, going by Nazere famous for its massive waves and the Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo and its stunning ocean views.
Coimbra was once the capital of Portugal andis a city full of history. Most importantly for us is the University of Coimbra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and home to the Joanina Library (or the Beauty and the Beast library if you prefer.
On arrival park and drop the bags at the hotel Ibn Arrik. before an early evening stroll around town. For dinner we are going to somewhere that is a change of place from the more traditional food. Troika Beer & Food is the sort of spot you dream of finding when travelling.
Saturday 20th September
After the visit to the University of Coimbra drive in the direction of Aveiro. Again the slow road only takes about 20 minutes longer, avoids tolls, and is much more enjoyable.
It’s not easy to park in Aveiro but there is a large car park along Rua dos Remadores Olimpicos, which is to the north west of the city centre by one of the canals and from where you can walk over an artistic circular bridge into the centre.
Aveiro is known as the “Venice of Portugal,” famous for its picturesque canals and colorful moliceiro boats which you can take a tour on. For lunch, if you can get in, the popular O Bairro would be a good choice. If you do go order the risotto (you can thank me later).
From Aveiro a two hour serene drive backcountry gets us to the heart of the Douro valley where we are in the mood for a little pampering at the Douro Cister Hotel and Spa .
Sunday 21st September
Take a leisurely morning at the hotel before setting off down the Douro valley taking in the beathtaking landscapes and terraced vineyards towards Porto. If you wanted you could stop at one of the many vineyards on the way. My choice would be the family run Quinta de Tourais.
Drop the car off at the airport and head into Porto either by taxi (public transport is available but you’ll have your luggage so for 25€ I would go for the easy option).
Drop your bags at the Grande Hotel de Porto and get out to stretch your legs. Porto has a warm welcoming atmosphere and seems to work on a slightly slower time than its big brother Lisbon. But they both have hilly streets in common!
A restaurant that captures the vibe of today’s Porto is o Carniceiro where restaurant meets cocktail bar (fortunately it is a cocktail bar that is open on a Sunday!) The meat here is fabulous, but be careful of the translations o their menu, pineapple and coconut have somehow been translated as prawns and basil.
Monday 22nd September
Whilst its tempting to stay in Porto there are still two other cities in Portugal I wanted to explore. You can do both in a day but the transport links aren’t great so my recommendation is to take the easy route and book a tour which covers both Braga and Guimarães . The other option would be to find parking for the car and keep it for an additional day.
Braga itself is an interesting city, but the main draw is the Bom Jesus do Monte Sancturary, or more specifically the Baroque staircase that leads up to it. If you can’t manage the stairs there is a funicular that takes you to the top, but in my mind the stairs are the best part of this visit.
Once you have enjoyed the sweeping views of Braga from the top walk back down through the gardens and take a wander around the historic centre of Braga. The Cathedral is one of the oldest in Portugal and has a particularly stunning double organ.
Guimarães is known as the birthplace of Portugal and has a charming and well-preserved city centre. The main draw here is the 10th century castle. It’s the sort of castle you have in mind when someone says “castle” it seems straight of a drawing or a film.
Once back in porto, and because we’ve been eating a lot of meat lately, we are heading to Meia-Nau a great sea-food restaurant just 15 minutes walk from the hotel.
Tuesday 22nd September
It’s time to explore Porto, so this morning we are going to talk a walking tour this one is a comprehensive three hour tour that takes in the fantastic views of the Crystal Palace Gardens, the Douro River and the Louis I Bridge as well as the and staircases of the Miragaia neighborhood.
For lunch we are going to have a classic portuguese grilled sandwich at Kardoso restaurante e garrafeira before heading to the bookshop that inspired this tour Livraria Lello e Irmão.
It all started with two brothers, José and António Lello, who entered the bookseller’s business in 1881 (“irmão” means brother). On January 13th, 1906 they opened a new bookstore built by the engineer Francisco Xavier Esteves.
Although the store was beautiful from the beginning, it had always been about the books. But as tourism in Porto took off, and J.K. Rowling apparently based the Hogwarts staircases on the one in Lello & Irmão, it started to become more of a tourist attraction. You can no longer enter the store without a ticket, which you buy at the shop on the corner. You can use this ticket to get a discount off any books you buy because this is still a working book store.
After the bookstore we have some time for shopping. First, Rue Formosa and its pretty boutiques, then Rue Sainte-Catherine, a very long pedestrian street flanked by shops. Here you’ll find a mix of boutiques, cafés, patisseries, large modern shopping centres (Via Catarina in particular), interior design, souvenirs etc.
For dinner we are going to a fusion restaurant MITSU FUSION Situated down hill on an upromising cobbled street this modern restaurant delivers both in floavour and in decor.
Wednesday 23rd September
This morning we are taking the short train ride to Vico in Spain where we will pick up a hire car to car on our journey.
First we’ll stop at the nearby Pontevedra, which is a lovely town with a well preserved medieval centre. Whish here let’s eat at Casa Fidel O’Pulpeiro an unpretentious little place that serves the best octopus.
After Pontevedra we can stop by the nearby Combarro. This is an intreging and pretty village, known for its horroes – a sort of stone grannery on pillars. The village centre is fairly small and very touristy, but it’s full of pretty, original restaurants, narrow streets, flowers and horreos. Once again, the atmosphere is a little mystical, with lots of little elves and goblins in the souvenir shops. Don’t hesitate to take a stroll along the beach for a different view of the village.
From here it’s an hours drive up to Santiago de Compostela to check into our hotel San Francisco Hotel Monumento.
Five minutes walk from the hotel and we find A Horta d’Obradoiro and what has the potential to be the best meal of this trip. This impressively unique restaurant serves interesting cuisine while at the same time showcasing a part of Santiago’s rich history. Run by two chefs, it occupies a house dating back to 1690 which was once home to musicians from the nearby cathedral. It features a combination of contemporary and regional decor, a wine bar made from old beams and colourful details that are reminiscent of old beach huts.
Thursday 24th September
This morning we need to visit the cathedral that so many pilgrims walk for weeks and months to see. The Cathedral St James stands at the heart of the city. Its façade is a kaleidoscope of sculptures and intricate details, evoking biblical scenes and symbolic motifs. Inside, sculptures, paintings, relics and more make it a veritable religious museum.
From one cathedral to another, this time the Playa de las Catedrales This beach is a natural wonder, famous for its stunning rock formations that resemble cathedral arches. When the tide is low, you can walk beneath these rock arches. It’s one of the most photographed places in Spain! It gets so busy you now have to reserve in advance to reduce the tourist numbers and protect the landscape. The walk takes about an hour and there are free car parks just before the beach.
From here we drive to Oviedo. For once we are not going to avoid the highway as the slow road takes 2 hours longer, but there are at least no tolls.
Asturias, officially called the Principality of Asturias, is an autonomous community in northern Spain, with Oviedo as its capital. The city beautifully combines medieval charm with modern architecture, creating a unique atmosphere. It’s an ideal place for a leisurely stroll, where every corner reveals a piece of history. With numerous statues scattered throughout, the town feels like an open-air museum. One of the specialities of the town is Carbayones, a puff pastry crust with an almond cream filling and a sugar glaze so it would be rude not to taste one while we are here.
Check in to our hotel for the night Hotel de la Reconquista The set of for a night of cider. Calle Gascona has 13 cider bars, or Sideria, where you can taste the local speciality which is a natural drink with vertually no bubbles. If you are lucky you will get to see them putting on a show of pouring the cider froma great height.
Friday 24th September
This morning we will drive to Santander a two hour drive along the coast. Park up near the Palacio de la Magdalena, a beautiful historic palace overlooking the sea, (only open at weekends but the grounds and the view are free). You can then walk alon the coast road to the Centro Botin, an arts centre with a striking modern design.
Grab a bite to eat then head to the Playa de Los Molinucos a small secluded beach much more intimate that the main El Sardinero beach, and more protected from the wind. Relax for a couple of hours before the final drive to Bilbao to drop off the car.
Get a taxi from the airport to the hotel Sercotel Arenal Bilbao , shower off the sand and wander over to the Plaza Nueva for a night of tapas, or rather Pintxos. In reality there isn’t much difference between Pintxos and taps (don’t tell the locals) but they are delicious. Peppers, Iberian ham and seafood all feature pominently.
Saturday 26th September
Walk from hotel along the side of the river on the Areatzako Pasealekua until you get to the Zubizuri bridge cross the bridge and continue in the same direction on the Ingelesen Landako Kaia until you get to the Guggenheim museum.
Known as much for the architecture of the building as much as for the art it contains this is a veritable monumental sculpture in the city, it has become the very heart of the Bilbao. Even if you’re not a museum-goer, get up close to it, walk around it. The structure, designed by Frank Gehry, with its titanium curves, is a true work of art. You’ll also find iconic sculptures such as Jeff Koons’ Puppy, a giant dog made of flowers, and Maman, a monumental spider by Louise Bourgeois.
The exhibits inside change on a regular basis, but we are just in time to catch the end of Helen Frankenthaler: Painting Without Rules, as well as the larger than life “in situ” by Refik Anadol.
Our last afternoon is dedicated to shopping. Walk down the Ercilla Kalea for the more standard shops then over the river to Casco Viejo. This is the oldest part of the city, so the streets are narrow but full of character. Don’t expect to find big department stores where you can buy international brands, because you won’t find them here. Instead, expect eclecticism and you won’t be disappointed by the fancy dress shops, bookshops, souvenir shops, grocery shops, bakeries and delicatessens.
For dinner a more upmarket taps experience is called for and Bilbao Berria Ledesma is the perfect choice for our final meal.
Sunday 27th September
Get up early for the return flight, with a change in Frankfurt.
Road trip Portugal and Spain: Conclusion and cost
This has been a packed itinerary, and if I’m honest I think there is easily enough to do on this route to occupy another two weeks. Its a great mix of fabulous European cities, smaller towns, stunning beaches, castles, Palaces as well as three of the most iconic book related visits in Europe.The Modern art in Lisbon and Bilbao really were the icing on the, very generous, cake.
The total cost of the journey, including all hotels, transport, meals, tours, entrances fees and 75€ per day of incidental spending (to cover taxis, Ice-creams coffees as well as fuel for the car) is 8639€ which is the equivalent of $CA 13470 .
| FLIGHTS | 1746 |
| HOTELS | 2806 |
| RESTAURANTS | 1889 |
| TRANSPORT | 893 |
| ENTRANCE FEES AND TOURS | 330 |
| SPENDING | 1090 |
| 8754 |
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