How to spend 10 days in Scotland : Nature and Outlander combined

I developed this itinerary originally for a client.  She is passionate about Scotland, thanks in part to the Outlander series as well as images from Harry Potter and discussions with her old Scottish neighbour, but she had never had the opportunity to visit. She wanted to spend 10 days in Scotland.

In addition to seeing some of the Outlander filming locations she was very keen to get out into nature and have an authentic experience with locals.  She didn’t want to go on any difficult hikes and definitely didn’t want to hire a car.  She was travelling solo, but didn’t want to compromise on comfort, so king size beds were needed not singles.

This itinerary is designed to be added on to other travels and so starts and ends in London, with travel from there to Scotland included in the itinerary.  This is a ten day trip, travelling through some of Scotland’s most beautiful and wild landscapes, mountains, lochs and windswept islands.  It’s the perfect balance for a first trip, with a little bit of city, a lot of nature, and plenty of authenticity. 

Edinburgh
Edinburgh – Scotland

Starting in Edinburgh, the trip takes us to the Trossachs national park to sample the Scottish countryside, across to Oban, gateway to the Hebrides to visit the islands, from there we take the train to the shores of Loch Lomond, one of Scotland’s most beautiful lakes.  The trip finishes in Glasgow, Scotland’s second city, the location for many scenes within the Outlander series.

Day 1 in Scotland – Arrive in Edinburgh

The journey starts with a train journey from London’s Kings cross station to Edinburgh.  It’s a direct train that takes just under four and a half hours.  The first part of the journey is pleasant but nothing particularly special, mostly farmland with a few villages.  Once you get past York the views get better, with vistas over the moors and a particularly dramatic entrance into Durham as the train crosses a viaduct.  But it is after Newcastle that it gets really special with views over the cliffs, beaches, fishing villages and out to Holy Island.  Make sure you book seats on the left-hand side of the train to make the most of the views.

To maximise the use of your time I suggest leaving your luggage at a locker at the station and heading straight to lunch.  I recommend the Royal Mile Tavern for their rather excellent fish and chips.

Royal Mile Edinburgh
Royal Mile – Edinburgh

In the afternoon a walking tour is a great way of getting to know the city, and a fun thing to do is to combine it with visiting some sites linked with Harry Potter in this themed walking tour.  The tour starts at 14:30 from the William Chambers Monument.  Note that although the author lives in Edinburgh and took inspiration from the city, there are no film locations in Edinburgh.

After the tour, recover your bags and take a taxi to the Kingsway guest house.  The Kingsway is the perfect antidote to chain hotels; both the hosts were born in Edinburgh and have gone above and beyond to make this guest house special.  They even won best bed and breakfast in Scotland in 2019.

For your first dinner in Scotland, I suggest the Abbey bar, which is about 10 minutes walk from the guest house.  There you can enjoy the Scottish speciality of Haggis. (link for those who want to know what Haggis actually is).  It may not sound appetising, but I assure you it is delicious.

Day 2 in Scotland – Outlander tour

Today is dedicated to Outlander.  After a hearty breakfast make your way to the meeting point (by bus or taxi) and enjoy a day of sightseeing.

The Outlander tour takes you to several of the filming locations in the area:

Midhope castle –  used as the filming location of Lallybroch, Jamie Fraser’s family home.

Midhope castle - Lallybroch

Doune castle – used as Castle Leoch in Outlander but also used by Monty Python and the audio guide is narrated by Terry Jones.

Clucross – used as the village of Cranesmuir – a charming well preserved 17th century village.

Falkland – another charming village with the fountain where Claire first appeared.

Blackness castle – used as Fort William in the series.

Entry into the castles is an optional extra on the tour but is definitely worth it.

Dinner this evening will be at a local Indian restaurant Pataka, 10 minutes walk from the guest house.  It may seem surprising but Indian food is practically a tradition in Scotland.  The Scots love their curries: it’s a major part of their contemporary culinary culture.

Day 3 in Scotland Edinburgh Castle

This morning it is time to visit Edinburgh castle, symbol of the city and witness to several centuries of Scottish history.  The castle is hard to miss, perched as it is high on a volcanic rock towering over the city.  Here you can visit the Scottish crown jewels, see the royal quarters and explore the ramparts and enjoy the splendid views over the city.  There is normally a bagpipe player on the way up to the castle to add to the Scottish atmosphere.

Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle

After lunch you should have time to explore the Royal mile, the most famous street in Edinburgh, where you will find street performers, artisanal shops and traditional old buildings.

Then its back to the guest house to pick up your bags before catching the bus to Callander.  (If you prefer not to take a bus you can get a taxi for £130).

The journey to Callander takes you through some beautiful rolling countryside and takes about 2 hours.

In Callander I recommend staying at the Lubnaig guest house, a Victorian lodge set in jaw-dropping countryside.

For the evening meal what better than a local pub, for a good meal and if you are lucky some great company.  The Crown hotel often has live music on a Saturday night.  Alternatively, you might choose to eat at the guest house.  You can prebook meals which are prepared for you by the owner, who happens to be Italian and a cordon bleu trained chef.

Day 4 in Scotland – Callander

Now is the time to slow the pace a little.  Take your time over breakfast then go for a wander around Callander.  This is Scotland on the human scale.  It is a charming little town surrounded by hills and forests.  Enjoy the local shops and maybe stop at a café for a cup of tea and a scone.

Braklinn Falls – Callander

In the afternoon, put on your walking shoes for the moderate, 2 hour hike up to Bracklinn falls.  These are some of Scotland’s most impressive waterfalls.  Where the Keltie river crosses the Highland Boundary Fault, these waterfalls are particularly beautiful if there has been recent rainfall. The best view of the falls is from the recently rebuilt Bracklinn Bridge, from where you are right above the centre of the falls.  The walk through the woodland is lovely, but a little muddy in places, so appropriate footwear is needed.  

Day 5 in Scotland – Callander and Oban

Another walk this morning, this time the Callander and Oban Railway Circular Walk.  This lovely circular trail will take you along forestry roads, through pine woodland, then along the route of the old Callander to Oban Railway.  There are some steeper sections, but overall this is a nice, manageable walk, for almost all experience levels.

In the afternoon take the bus to Oban.  The journey takes about two and a half hours and takes your through some spectacular scenery with lochs and mountains.

Oban is a picturesque seaside town on Scotland’s west coast, often called the “Gateway to the Isles” because ferries depart from its harbour to the Hebridean islands.  My recommendation for accommodation here is Hawthorn Guest house, a charming historical home with plenty of modern touches.  There is a view out to the water and over to the islands (room 5 has a good view).

Hawthorn Guest house Oban - Regency room
Hawthorn Guest House – Oban

For dinner it is time to take advantage of some of the local fantastic sea food at EE-USK, a modern glass fronted seafood restaurant right on the pier.  Be warned, reservations are essential at this very popular restaurant.

Day 6 in Scotland – Mull, Iona and Staffa

This will be an unforgettable day visiting three Scottish islands, that are as different as they are beautiful.  Departure is at 9:55 a.m. from the Oban ferry terminal, so plan to arrive a little early, around 9:25 am, to board the CalMac ferry at your leisure.

The crossing of the Firth of Lorn, which takes just under an hour offers superb views of the coast and surrounding hills.  A coach will be waiting in Craignure on the Isle of Mull to take you across the island.  The journey will take you through Glen More, a wild and green valley, while your guide recounts the history and legends of this remote corner of the Hebrides.

At Fionnphort, you will take a boat to the small island of Staffa, famous for its Fingal’s Cave and impressive basalt formations.  In June you should be lucky enough to see puffins, some of my favourite birds.

Staffa – Scotland

After about an hour on Staffa, you will sail to the neighbouring island of Iona, considered a spiritual centre of Scottish history.  

The trip gets back into Oban at around 5:15pm, giving you time to freshen up before your evening meal.  Which you could take at the local pub, but if the weather if fine it would be the perfect opportunity to get a real fish and chips takeaway (from Norries) and eat it on the waterfront.

Day 7 in Scotland – Oban

Take some time this morning to explore the town of Oban, heading up to McCraig’s tower for some spectacular views.  The tower was built at the end of the 19th century at the whim of a local banker.  Inspired by Greek and Roman architecture he wanted to build a lasting monument to his family as well as provide winter work for the local stonemasons.  

At the end of the morning head to the Oban Distillery for a tour that will give you’re the history of whisky making as well as an explanation as to what makes Oban whiskey special.  The tour ends with a tasting of 4 different malts.  (This tour books out so make sure you reserve in advance.)

This afternoon take the train from Oban to Arrochar and then a taxi on to the Inn on Loch Lomond.

The Inn has a history of over 200 years, and recently won a best hotel in Scotland award.  It has stunning views over the lake and has a very good restaurant so there is no need to go anywhere this evening.

Day 8 in Scotland – Arrochar and Tarbet

With the views around here you are bound to be itching for a walk, so put on your walking shoes and head out to the Arrochar and Tarbet Hidden Heritage Trail, a beautiful hike that combines spectacular scenery with touches of local history.

The hike starts not far from the village and follows a gentle loop through forests, streams and viewpoints over Loch Long and Loch Lomond.  Along the way, information boards tell the story of the area with the old military roads, the clans, and life in these isolated valleys.  It’s a great way to soak up the atmosphere of the national park while walking at your own pace.

The hike is not difficult, but be sure to wear suitable footwear and bring a picnic to enjoy along the way.  On a clear day, you can see the peaks of Ben Lomond and The Cobbler, two iconic mountains in the area.  If you prefer a more challenging trek you can take a longer route with a climb up to the summit of Cruach Tairbeirt.

Day 9 in Scotland – Luss and Loch Lomond

This morning it is time to leave the mountains behind and explore the shores of Loch Lomond.  Take the quick, 8 minute, bus journey from Inverbeg to Luss. 

Luss is a small village straight out of a picture postcard, with stone cottages and flowery borders.  It is one of the prettiest villages in Scotland.  It’s a lovely place to wander round.  This is where travelling light becomes important.  You could leave your luggage at the guest house and double back for it.

Otherwise head for the pier and take the circular cruise on the lake.  The boat has live commentary with tales from the loch and insights into the history and geology of this part of Loch Lomond.  This part of the loch is also well known for the resident osprey that return to the same nesting site every year.

Loch Lomond Scotland
Loch Lomond – Scotland

From Luss take the bus towards Glasgow, where you will be staying at the Alamo Guest house.  This elegant 1880s listed building is in the heart of the West End of Glasgow where you can find many of the best restaurants and bars that the city has to offer.  This guest house has been beautifully restored, but I do have one hesitation in recommending it.  Many (perhaps all) of the guest rooms have a bath which is in the bedroom.  I know many of my clients prefer to have privacy in the bathroom, but as this itinerary is designed for a single person I didn’t think it is a concern.

Scotland is known for its beef so I think its about time you tasted some.  Fortunately, just around the corner from the guesthouse is the Butchershop, one of the best steak houses in the city.

Day 10 in Scotland – Glasgow for Outlander fans

For your last day in Scotland, I suggest a special tour of Glasgow through the filming locations of the Outlander series.  It’s a great way to end your trip and discover this, often misunderstood, city.  After breakfast set off to explore the city on foot, following in the footsteps of Claire and Jamie.

Stop one: Glasgow Cathedral, one of the oldest buildings in Scotland.  Its Gothic vaults and dark crypt were used as the setting for L’Hôpital des Anges, the Parisian hospital where Claire works in season 2 of Outlander.  Admission is free, but opening hours may vary depending on church services.

Stop two: George Square and the City Chambers 45 John Street.  This is where the scenes of Claire and Frank’s wedding were filmed, which in the series were supposed to take place in London.  You can take a free tour of the City Chambers, a stunning Victorian building with sumptuous décor.  Visits do not need to be booked in advance; simply arrive about 30 minutes before the tour time.

Stop three: the University of Glasgow, recognisable by its Gothic towers and impressive cloisters.  In season 3, it plays the role of Harvard University, where Frank teaches and Claire begins a new life in Boston.  The locations used for filming are the cloisters, the main building and Melville Hall.  Even outside of Outlander, the visit is well worth it: the university evokes history, literature and a touch of Harry Potter-style magic.

Glasgow University Outlander film set
Glasgow University – Scotland

Stop four: Kelvingrove Park, one of Glasgow’s most beautiful green spaces.  This park appears twice in season 3: first when Claire goes to medical school, then when she pushes Bree in her pram.  The Prince of Wales Bridge offers a beautiful view of the university and the surrounding cityscape.  The park is also home to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, a superb free museum known for its collections of European and Scottish art.

Finish the day in the neighbouring streets of the West End, Byres road or Argle street, which are full of cafés bookshops and art galleries.

For your last night in Scotland I think a bit of live music is in order, the Islay Inn, barely a five minute walk from the guest house, has live music on Friday and Saturday nights.

Day 11 in Scotland – time to leave

Its time to leave Scotland and head south on the train.  Taking with you memories of stunning landscapes, great hospitality and maybe even some new friends.

Cost of 10 days in Scotland

This trip is designed for a solo traveller to Scotland. The total cost of the 10 day trip to Scotland, including the return rail journey to London, all accommodation, entrance fees, tours and a £150 allowance for meals each day comes to £4348. As always a full breakdown of costs is available on request.

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