During my recent trip to Majorca I was stuck by how different if feels from mainland Spain. From the language to the food and culture. This is something Majorca has in common with other, large mediterranean islands. It is as though the sea that separates them from the mainland protects their traditions and cultures from change.
This is one of the problems I have with what I like to call tick-list tourism. People travelling to different countries so they can tick them off a virtual list as though by visiting they now understand the place a little. But visiting Madrid does not get you close to understanding Majorca nor will a trip to Paris give you any insight into the cultures and traditions of Corsica.
Whilst every country has differences between the regions, being an island amplifies these differences, especially for the larger island who over the centuries have developed an independent identity that doesn’t rely on its neighbours.
What this means for travellers is that you don’t need to change countries to experience a different culture, or even a different language. The difference between the mainland and these islands is far greater than the difference you get by crossing a land border.
Majorca, Spain
Almost a million people call this Mediterranean island their home. That makes it larger than some EU nation states (notably Luxembourg and Malta). Before mass tourism arrive the main source of income was agriculture, with crops such as almonds and olives making up a significant portion of the island’s wealth. These days tourism accounts for 35-40% of the GDP of Majorca. It’s difficult to look at sites like Instagram without finding pictures of coves with beautiful turquoise water. Tourism pays the bills, but agriculture, crafts, and the maritime sector keep Majorca rooted in something older and more authentic.
The local language is not, as one might imagine, Spanish, but instead the softer tones of Mallorqui which is a form of Catalan. Similar to the way that Scottish English differs from southern English, Mallorqui usies vocabulary you won’t hear in Barcelona or Girona. In particular articles change so la Casa becomes sa casa. Children learn Catalan in schools with Spanish being taught as a second language. Official documents and street signs are in both languages and most residents are comfortable switches between the two languages, though the local dialect remains the language of choice when with friends and family.
The local food is another place you see the difference from the mainland. Spanish food is regional anyway, with the menus of Andalucia looking very different to those found on the Galacian coastline. But Majorca’s food is even more tied to the landscape. Up until the mid 20th century pretty much everything eaten on the island was grown, cured or caught there, and those traditions remain in place today. The cuisine doesn’t rely on heavy sauces or complicated techniques, it is built around seasonality, local produce, and what can be preserved for the winter. Specialities include Sobrasada, ground pork cured with paprika and spices it is a sort of spreadable sausage eaten on toast. Some even drizzle it with honey.
Another speciality is Ensaimada, a coiled flaky pastry dusted with sugar. You see these piled up for sale at Palma airport as they are a common gift for Spanish visitors to take home. The peculiarity is that the pastry is made with lard rather than butter. Saïm is the Catalan for lard (similar to Sain-doux in French). Originally cattle were scarce on the island, and butter spoils quickly in the heat, so the more stable and more readily available lard was used instead. Olive oil is favoured for cooking but lard makes a much more delicious pastry. It does tend to leave a slight greasy feel on the hands and the palate though.
Majorca’s difference can also be felt in the pace of life. Compared to mainland Spain things here are less rushed, meals stretch long into the afternoon and even the speech seems slower and softer. Visiting here doesn’t feel like visiting Spain, it feels like visiting Majorca.
Corsica, France
Corsica has a smaller population than Majorca both in real numbers and as a percentage of the population as a whole (just 0.5% compared to 1.95% for Majorca) but honestly you wouldn’t know it. Such is the pride in being Corsican anyone French with a link to Corsica considers themselves Corsican. In France you can choose which department number you have on your car number plate, it is no longer linked to where you live, and more people on the mainland have chosen 2A or 2B which represent Corsica than the population of Corsica itself.
Corsica became part of France in 1769, which was the same year that Napoleon Bonaparte was born on the island. During his reign of power Corsican pride and French prestige were linked, but since then Corsicans have resisted centralization efforts, taxes and policies that do not reflect the island’s needs. There was a period of time in the later part of the twentieth century where this resulted in terrorist attacks and bombings.
These days the relationship between Corsica and mainland France is a peaceful one; the island it has been given far more control over education and local administration than other parts of France enjoy. The prevalence of the Moor’s head flag rather than the tricolor of France is testament to the strong pride that is felt at being Corsican.
Whilst French is the main language, the local language, Corsu, is taught in schools and is used by many of the older generation. It is closer to Italian than to French, unsurprisingly given the Island was ruled by Genoa for almost 500 years.
The food is far less refined that you will find in French cities like Paris and Lyon and bears closer resemblance to a mountain diet, with hearty meats and fresh sheep’s cheese than it does a typical Mediterranean one of vegetables and fish.
As visitor you will find far more differences between Corsica and the rest of France than you will find by crossing a land border to Belgium or Switzerland.
Crete, Greece
Right from the earliest civilisations Crete was separate from Greece. Home to the Minoan civilization, the earliest advanced civilization in Europe and later ruled by Venice and then the Ottoman Empire. Surprisingly Crete didn’t become part of Greece until the twentieth century (1913) . Whilst today Crete is fully integrated politically with Greece, visitors to the island immediately notice a difference. There is a pride to being Cretian.
It is the largest and most southerly of the Greek islands. Its geography, with mountains and gorges, has shaped the island meaning that not only is there a big difference between Crete and the rest of Greece, but the north and south of the island has different customs and cultures.
One of the clearest examples of how Crete has preserved its cultural identity is through music. Crete has its own instruments, that rarely appear elsewhere. The Lyra, a three stringed upright fiddle played with a bow, and the Laouto a long necked lute that often accompanies the Lyra. The music itself is raw, emotional and highly improvised, beginning slowly before building into rapid tempos. Music is a core part of social life in Crete with every festival or saint’s day revolving around music and dance.
Unlike Majorca and Corsica, Crete doesn’t have its own language taught in schools, but older generations still speak a traditional dialect and Cretan Greek had some differences in words and pronunciation.
Like other large mediterranean islands, the food in Crete is shaped by local produce and seasonality. Cretan food resembles the ideal mediterranean diet, heavy on the olive oil and vegetables, with beans, chickpeas and lentils as staple items. Dakos (one of the dishes I ate at Georges restaurant in Makry Gailos) is a distinctly Crete take on the Greek salad with a topping of barley rusk. And Kalitsounia, small cheese or herb pies which can be either savoury or sweet, covered in local honey.
Crete truly deserves to be a destination of its own and not classed as just another Greek island. With its own identity, culture, music and food it makes a great stop on any European adventure.
The independent spirit of the Mediterranean
These are not the only islands in Europe that feel more like their own countries. Sardinia and Sicily have a similar, strongly independent pride and individual culture. Travelling to these islands gives you experiences that you will never have on the mainland. The sea has isolated them, changed them, and made them stronger. Their identity is individual and unique. Each of these islands has a reason to visit that sets them apart from there ruling nation.
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